Life skills for puppies

Within the first 8 – 12 weeks of your puppy’s life, ideally, you want to create positive experiences for your puppy around everything that is in his environment. i.e. people/children/animals/other dogs/animate and inanimate objects, vehicles, sounds etc.

A very simple way of ensuring positive encounters is with rewards or reinforcements of food.

NEVER force or rush your puppy into a situation which might overwhelm them! You will only do more harm than good and may damage trust that your puppy has already built up in you.

If your puppy does react fearfully towards something/someone or tries to avoid it or becomes over aroused, remove your puppy from this situation for a few moments and then attempt slowly reintroducing the something/someone.

A puppy on a lead socialising in public space
  • Women
  • Men
  • Tall men
  • Men with beards/facial hair
  • Men with deep voices
  • Teenagers
  • Toddlers
  • Babies
  • Babies crying
  • People of various ethnicities
  • Elderly people
  • People wearing all black
  • People wearing lots of colours
  • People wearing uniforms
  • People wearing hi-viz
  • People wearing sunglasses
  • People wearing helmets
  • People wearing rucksacks
  • People wearing hats/hoods
  • People in wheelchairs
  • People who use canes/crutches
  • People running
  • People who are homeless

Please note that ALL touching and handling exercises should be taken slowly and gently, remembering to always reward calm and positive behaviour at these times.

  • Holding in arms
  • Holding on lap
  • Gently hugging pup
  • Handling collar
  • Holding tail
  • Gently pinching skin
  • Outside of ears
  • Inside of ears but not into canal
  • Outside mouth area
  • Inside mouth area
  • Back teeth
  • Eye area
  • Paws and legs
  • Nails area
  • Nose
  • Genital areas
  • Putting on collar/harness
  • Brushing/grooming
  • Wiping body with towel
  • Wiping paws with towel
  • Wiping face with towel
  • Other puppies
  • Nice adult dogs
  • Large breeds (St. Bernard, Great Dane etc)
  • Very small breeds
  • Brachycephalic (flat-faced) breeds (Boxers, Pugs etc)
  • As many different dog breeds as possible
  • Cats
  • Live stock like cattle
  • Horses
  • Pet birds
  • Hamsters, pet rodents etc
  • Household noises: Hoover, microwave, washing machine, hairdryer, smoke alarm, TV, computers, lawnmower etc
  • All different animal sounds
  • Fireworks
  • Doorbell or door knocking
  • People cheering
  • Gunshot & thunder
  • Vehicle reversing bleeps/warning
  • Police/ambulance siren
  • Construction machinery
  • Car horns
  • Grass and wet grass
  • Concrete
  • Slippy floors
  • Stairs
  • Dirt and mud
  • Ice and snow (if possible)
  • Rocky areas and uneven terrain
  • Artificial turf
  • Gravel
  • Cars & car journeys
  • Buses
  • Lorries
  • Bin lorries
  • Motorbikes
  • Bikes
  • Scooters
  • Skateboards
  • Prams/buggies
  • Shopping trolleys
  • Starting quieter, build up to busy street
  • Park with other dogs
  • Park with lots of people
  • Park with lots of kids
  • The beach
  • Streams and rivers
  • Pet friendly shopping areas & shops
  • Inside people’s homes/gardens
  • Dog friendly events
  • Car parks
  • Street markets
  • Vets surgery
  • Dog grooming place
  • Dog friendly restaurants, cafes and hotels
  • Blankets & rugs being shaken
  • Balloons
  • Umbrellas
  • Footballs
  • Toys
  • Bags blowing in the wind
  • Bin bag being opened
  • Computer game noises
  • Wheelie bin & it being moved
  • Road cones

This list is not exhaustive. But do not allow yourself to become overwhelmed by this list either. You should consider your and your puppy’s circumstances regarding the type of things that he needs socialisation with. E.g. if it is your hope that you would take your puppy camping at some point in his life, then make sure he has positive introductions to a tent as a puppy! Perhaps you have a short coated breed who will not require the services of a grooming parlour, so you can leave this bit of socialisation out.

However, be aware that the wider the variety of social interactions your puppy has in a relaxed and positive manner, the more chance he has of growing into a well balanced and confident adult. Good luck!

Mary - Our Certified Behaviourist

Meet Mary – our certified behaviourist

Our dog behaviour service is led by Mary Howat, who many of you may recognise from our Blairgowrie team!

Mary started working with Thrums in 2003, and has progressed to qualify as a certified animal behaviourist and certified Elite Fear Free professional. She also runs her own dog behaviour and training consultancy, K9INTUITION, taking veterinary referrals, behaviour consultations, one to one sessions with puppies and their owners and also providing advice for clients on choosing a puppy and before they have brought their puppy home.

She shares her life and home with her husband and their Labrador, Murdo and cat, Harray.

Call our Kirriemuir team today to book an appointment on 01575 572 643.